Why do custom garments cost more than ready to wear?

There are many issues here. First of all, ready to wear clothing is available at a wide range of price points. Most people understand that clothing from very inexpensive chain stores typically uses factory labor with unethical conditions, but it is a surprise to some that even more expensive clothing is often plagued with labor problems. Thankfully the fashion industry is beginning to change, but it is still currently based on a throwaway model in which factories compete for the lowest possible price quote for a company. It is not uncommon for workers to make the equivalent of wages like $0.64 per hour working in factories overseas. Even considering vast differences in economic prosperity between countries, that $0.64 per hour does not translate to a living wage for most garment workers, who can even be separated from their children in order to work long hours that still do not result in a sustainable life. For more information, check out the documentary "The True Cost," watch short narrative documentary films about garment industry workers' lives, identify ethical clothing brands to purchase from, or get even involved in activism to support garment industry change. Simply by searching for the topics online will generate a wealth of other websites and information.

It is disturbing that we have allowed this. The fashion industry can change, but it depends on so many factors. The biggest one is you: every person who puts in the effort to care where their clothes come from and educate others puts a bit more pressure on the garment industry to change. It only survives in its current model, after all, because of consumers. Luckily, caring is contagious. 

How can I make more ethical decisions if I can't afford custom?

It is true that not everyone can afford higher end garments or custom apparel. I grew up wearing clothes from the second hand store, which I actually liked, and even my brother's hand my downs some of the time (ask me how I felt about wearing boys' clothing to school). Both my parents grew up with very little. My mother learned to sew as a child as part of the 4-H club in rural Michigan. Without a lot of resources, people tend to become resourceful themselves, and she made a beautiful hoop skirt dress to wear to her high school prom. I grew up with more ease than she did, but resourcefulness was still a big part of my upbringing, and I loved making my own clothes.

Thrift stores are an excellent solution to the problem for the most cost conscious consumers - you'd be surprised how many gems I've snapped up at my delightful local Unique Thrift Store one neighborhood away in the Bronx, including a sequined dress for $20, silk tops for $8, and the most gorgeous Italian designer pumps with the $368 price sticker still on the unscratched leather sole for a mere $10. Sometimes items need some alterations, but when you add in the cost of a good tailor, you are still getting a steal. Clothing swaps with friends are another way to freshen up your wardrobe - for free!

A step in the right direction is making even chain store purchases more thoughtfully. When I was younger, I used to be guilty of buying things on impulse and then donating my excess clothing every so often. Unfortunately, donating clothing isn't as nice as we think it is (again, check out The True Cost documentary to find out why). Consider clothing as an investment and buy for longevity. Only buy what you truly love. Tailor pieces so they fit you perfectly. 

When we consider how much money we waste shopping for clothes that then get thrown away at the rate of 82 pounds per person in the U.S. (or sent in big bales overseas to places like Haiti where they then disrupt the local economy), investing a bit more in garments that last does not seem so frivolous anymore. Looking and feeling like a million bucks doesn't mean you have to spend a million bucks. Even average consumers can consider swapping out buying cheap fashion in quantity for custom pieces as an investment in their wardrobe that pay for themselves over time.